9th Annual Critics Challenge International Wine Competition
May 19 & 20, 2012
San Diego, California

Champagne Mumm Captivates the Critics

ROBERT WHITLEY
Creators Syndicate

Foreign wineries entering U.S. competitions, especially those based in California, generally do so at their own peril. The home-field advantage for domestic wines is "palatable," considering the local wines are the most familiar and thus the most comfortable to evaluate for your garden-variety wine judge, who in most cases works in some capacity in the wine industry.

Not so at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition, staged annually in San Diego, Calif., for the past eight years. Foreign entries ruled, at least in the championship round, at the 2011 Critics Challenge over Memorial Day weekend.

The G.H. Mumm Brut Rose Champagne ($70) was voted Wine of the Year and Best of Show sparkling wine by a wide margin among the 15 internationally known wine journalists/critics who spent two days tasting and rating nearly 1,400 entries from 16 nations.

The Wine of the Year vote came after the competition had been narrowed to five Best of Show wines: Hagafen 2010 White Riesling, Devoto Vineyards, Lake County ($18, best white); Cakebread Cellars 2007 Merlot, Napa Valley ($54, best red); Robert Oatley 2010 Rose of Sangiovese, Mudgee, Australia ($15, best rose); Inniskillin 2007 Vidal Ice Wine VQA, Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($60, best dessert wine); and the Champagne Mumm Brut Rose as best sparkling.

Mumm claimed nine votes from the 15 judges. The Hagafen Riesling was runner-up with four votes. The triumph by Mumm marked the third time in eight years that a Champagne house had taken the top prize at Critics Challenge. The Critics Challenge is unique among wine competitions in that all of the judges are noted wine journalists with multiple book, magazine and newspaper columns on the resume.

Champagne Mumm also received the Director's Award as Winery of the Year for its stellar performance, which included gold awards for the other two G.H. Mumm wines entered — Mumm de Cramant Grand Cru ($75) and Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut ($35).

In addition to the major prizes, 681 awards were given to wines of merit — nearly half of the 1,380 wines entered. Critics Challenge recognizes exceptional wines with silver and gold awards, with a handful attaining platinum status by advancing to the championship rounds, where Best of Show and Wine of the Year are determined.

All of the winners have been posted on the results page, and I have taken note of several of the most impressive performances. To wit:

Bracey Vineyards, a little-known boutique brand produced at a custom-crush facility in Northern California, entered six wines and medaled with five, including platinum awards for its 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain ($70) and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "TKL", Oakville ($75).

Cakebread Cellars, a Napa Valley mainstay, entered but two wines and placed both in the championship round. Besides the Best of Show red wine, the 2007 Merlot, Cakebread earned platinum with its 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($61).

Cameron Hughes, a San Francisco-based negociant, picked up a stunning total of 14 awards, including four golds. Cameron Hughes purchases odd lots of finished wine from super-premium wineries and bottles them under his own name at a fraction of the price the wines would sell for at the source. For example, one of his gold winners is a 2008 Meritage, Napa Valley that retails for $13. The price range on his 14 award-winners was a low of $10 and a high of $22.

Frogtown Cellars, the Lumpkin County, Ga., winery that was the subject of a recent Wine Talk column, took four awards — all gold. Frogtown scored with its cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tannat.

Frank Family Vineyards of the Napa Valley continued its strong performance in wine competitions this year with gold awards for the only two wines it entered — the 2009 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($35) and 2009 Chardonnay, Carneros ($32.50).

Gloria Ferrer, the Carneros winery that specializes in sparkling wine, gathered nine medals, but its two platinums were both for pinot noir — the 2007 Estate Pinot Noir ($22) and the 2006 Rust Rock Terrace Vineyard ($40). Another pinot and three of its sparkling wines earned gold.

Gnarly Head scored big for the value wines, winning a platinum with its 2010 California Chardonnay ($10.99) and gold for its 2009 Lodi Zinfandel ($10.99).

Jacobs Creek, another value wine from Australia's Barossa Valley, won nine awards, including one platinum and three golds, with no wine costing more than $13.99. The platinum winner was the 2010 Dry Riesling, Barossa ($13.99).

John Duval, the man and the winery, entered three wines from Barossa and took one platinum and two golds. Duvall, the man, was the longtime winemaker for Penfolds Grange, Australia's most important wine. Duvall, the wine, is not cheap. Its platinum-winning shiraz, the 2006 Eligo, retails for a cool $100.

Jordan Vineyard & Winery, long a star in California's Alexander Valley, entered but two wines — its 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($52) and its 2009 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($29) — and took a gold award with each.

Kilikanoon is a rocking winery in Australia's Clare Valley, and it was on its game in the 2011 Critics Challenge, winning nine awards, including two platinums — 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Block's Road ($30) and 2010 Riesling, Mort's Block, Watervale ($20) — and four golds.

Lafond Winery of Santa Barbara had two pinots in the championship round, including the Best of Class Pinot Noir, the 2006 Pinot Noir, Lafond Estate Vineyard ($48). Its other platinum pinot was the 2009 SRH ($27). Lafond also won a gold award with its 2007 Chardonnay, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills ($38).

V. Sattui, perhaps the Napa Valley's most award-winning winery, took the prize for most medals at the 2011 Critics Challenge with 15. Seven of those were gold, but for the first time in recent memory V. Sattui failed to place a wine in the championship/platinum round of Critics Challenge, where it has been Winery of the Year twice. Despite the fact the ground didn't move, that counts as an earthquake at the Critics Challenge.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Photos by Wilfred Wong.

Next Up: Sommelier Challenge III

The final event in the Challenge series of international wine competitions is the Sommelier Challenge, which draws talented sommeliers from across the United States to taste and evaluate the entries.

Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition is scheduled for September 10 & 11, 2012. Among the top Somms invited to judge this year: San Francisco-based Master Sommelier Jesse Becker; Anani Lawson, currently at Per Se in New York City and former Somm at The French Laundry; Jesse Rodriguez, top Somm at Addison in Del Mar, CA, and former Somm at French Laundry; and Traci Dutton of the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, CA, in the heart of the Napa Valley.

For more details on the Sommelier Challenge, visit www.sommelierchallenge.com.

June 9, 2011

Great Medal Winning Wines Under $20

ROBERT WHITLEY
Creators Syndicate

I've been inspired by the Elyse Luray book, "Great Wines Under $20," which is available for $9.77 in paperback from Amazon. But first let me explain that "great" in this context often means very good for the money.

That was the theme of many judges at the recent Critics Challenge International Wine Competition in San Diego. There was no shortage of fabulous but expensive wine. Just look at the Wine of the Year, the G.H. Mumm Brut Rose Champagne, and the Best of Show red wine, the 2007 Cakebread Merlot from the Napa Valley. One is $70 retail, while the other is $51.

But a wine didn't have to be expensive to impress the critics. On the contrary, there were a bevy of gold and platinum medal-winners that carried a modest price tag. Luray's book has inspired me to sift through the results and make note of the best of these inexpensive gems.

I have culled out only the wines with which I am familiar or have tasted over the Critics Challenge weekend. These are my favorites, in alphabetical order, and all won a gold medal unless otherwise noted.

Banfi 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, Tuscany, Italy ($18) — Banfi is best known for its Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, with a much heftier price tag. The wines from the Chianti Classico district are both affordable and superb. The Riserva (platinum) is smooth and supple, with excellent structure and a lingering finish that invites another sip. And at $13, the non-reserve Chianti Classico won a silver medal.

Boro Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($10) — Not sure how they pull this off at this price, but Boro Hills Sauvignon delivers the pungent aromas associated with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as well as sweet notes of gooseberry, tangerine and lime.

Campo Viejo 2007 Rioja Crianza DDOC, Spain ($10) — This is a delicious entry level red from one of the world's greatest wine regions; a place where prices haven't quite caught up to quality. If value and budget are huge considerations, Spain offers both along with outstanding quality.

Casillero del Diablo 2009 Carmenere Reserva, Rapel Valley, Chile ($12) — You do know the 'C' in Chile stands for cheap. Cheap from Chile doesn't equate to dull or boring. This Carmenere (a forgotten Bordeaux grape variety until revived in Chile) is extremely satisfying.

Erath Winery 2009 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($19) — Shocking, I know. And you thought you had to spend $30 or more to get one of those earthy, spicy Oregon Pinots. Erath is the real deal and the price is not a mirage.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Aglianico 'Rubrato,' Irpinia IGT, Italy ($16) — This is one of my favorites reds from the competition, at any price. It is structured and earthy, with lovely dark-fruit aromas and spice accents. Aglianico is one of Italy's greatest red wines, but it's not widely known or understood here in the U.S.

Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Dulce 'Solera 1847,' Jerez DDO, Spain ($19.99) — This is amazing wine for the price. If you have a sweet tooth following dinner, or simply want something special to serve with savory cheeses, this beautiful Sherry won't break the bank.

Hahn 2009 Merlot, Central Coast ($12) — This is one of the better value wineries in California, and the secret is their exceptional vineyard sources throughout Monterey and San Luis Obispo counties. The Merlot has guts, or it wouldn't have been a contender for Best of Show red wine. The price is simply ridiculous for a wine that yummy. Also, it won gold with a delicious Monterey County Pinot Gris at the same low price.

Handley Cellars 2009 Pinot Gris, Anderson Valley ($18) — One of the best white wines of the weekend and a legitimate contender for Best of Show white wine. Of course, all of the Handler wines are stellar, so the only surprise here is the modest price.

Henry Estate Winery 2008 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($18) — This is another outstanding Oregon Pinot at a great price. Henry is consistently underrated. I have no idea why, because the wines are always top-notch.

Jacob's Creek 2010 Dry Riesling, Barossa Valley, Australia ($14) — Also G 2007 Shiraz Reserve, Barossa ($14) — Yes, many of the world's best dry Rieslings are made in Australia, and Jacob's Creek is one of them.

Kenwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($10) — I've been buying this wine as a summer house wine for years and can't help but note its remarkable consistency. It always exhibits aromas of fresh grapefruit and dried herbs, with a crisp acidity.

Lockwood 2008 Merlot Estate, Monterey ($15) — This winery owns one of the largest vineyards in southern Monterey County. The price reflects the economy of scale, not poor quality.

Maschio Brut Prosecco, Treviso DOC, Italy ($13) — I have two bottles of this in the fridge, even as I type. I served it at the Critics Challenge judges' reception. I think it's the perfect quaffing bubbly for summer. You get the idea.

Navarro Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir, Mendocino ($19) — Consider that Navarro is among the most committed wineries in California. That commitment is to high quality wine from Anderson Valley and Mendocino County fruit. Mission accomplished, and, no, the price is not a typo!

Nobilo 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 'Regional Collection,' Marlborough, New Zealand ($14) — One of the top Sauvignon producers in New Zealand, Nobilo spares nothing in its quest for quality, and that extends even to its least expensive wines, the "Regional Collection." One of my go-to Kiwi Sauvignons when I see it on a wine list.

Robert Oatley 2010 Rose of Sangiovese, Mudgee, Australia ($15) — It was the slam-dunk winner in the rose category, and it's been a winner in every wine competition that it has entered. It will be a winner at your backyard barbecue, too. It has lovely balance, low alcohol, pretty fruit and a friendly price. More rose like this, please!

Tangent 2009 Albarino, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley ($17) — If you love Albarino, which I do, this is just about the finest domestic Albarino out there. It can stand head-to-head with Albarino from Spain's Rias Baixas district and hold its own. It's beautifully structured and delicious.

Tapena 2009 Tempranillo, Tierra de Castilla, Spain ($10) — I've recommended this wine many times before and nothing has changed. It exhibits lovely red and black fruit character, with good richness and freshness. The tannins are supple and sweet, making it easy to drink and almost way too perfect for summer picnics and al fresco dining.

Villa San-Juliette 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles ($15) -- This wine won a platinum and compete in the vote for Best of Show white wine. Easy to see why. It shows lovely aromas of stone fruit and citrus, with fresh acidity and a clean, crisp finish.

Zonte's Footstep 2010 Verdehlo 'Sea Mist,' Langhorne Creek, Australia ($14) — This crisp, mineral-driven white from southeastern Australia was one of the finest whites I tasted at Critics Challenge, regardless of price.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.